If it's a standard Brownie No. 2 then it's just normal 120 film; 120 was introduced for the Brownie in 1901. That video Matt linked to is basically how you load it, i would add you need to try and keep some tension on the roll by keeping your finger on the film spool while turning the take-up to pick up the slack.
If you want some help try
this page as it has the link for the PDF of the original Brownie No. 2 manual with instructions on how to load it. Looking at it and from using box cameras i'd guess the shutter is 1/30th of a second, the unmarked f-stops will be f/11, 16, 22 and the focus range will be 5-6ft to infinity.
I personally don't use anything faster than ISO100 film (these cameras were designed for ISO25 or less film) in these cameras, usually either Kodak Ektar 100 or Fuji ACROS 100 with a small ND4 (2 stop) filter for colour film and a orange filter (this filter usually takes 2 stops off exposure) when using black and white for extra contrast and exposure control; just hold them in front of the lens. This gives you a bit of flexibility as well because if you go in shadow or somewhere a bit darker you just don't use a filter and you have 2 stops extra exposure.
I also tend to work out the settings for the ISO of the film in advance so when i'm using my tiny gossen sixtino light meter i know what light conditions the camera/film can handle at a glance. So i was using a Kodak Brownie Hawkeye Flash which has one aperture f/11 and one speed 1/50th so you can tell it was meant for ISO 25 film if you do the sunny-16 rule thing in your head (f/11 @ 1/50th is the same as f/16 at 1/25th or f/8 @ 1/100th). If you take that f/8 @ 1/100th, for ISO 100 film you'd want the aperture to be equivalent to f/16 ideally to use on a bright day, so if you use a ND4 filter it knocks 2 stops off the exposure value and gives you f/16 @ 1/100th.
That's probably confusing as hell but learning that is a real lesson in the ISO/aperture/shutter link and how you can convert to equivalent exposure values. All that essentially does is give me a list of acceptable settings i can use with that camera and the film in it, so when i'm out i'll take a reading with the light meter, if it falls within the acceptable ranges i know i can get a good exposure for that scene.
Anyway feel free to ask any more questions, always happy to help.
