bad photo

burleyviking

burleyviking

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Name
lee
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hi all,

can anyone please tell me why what looked a good sharp photo when i was taking it ended up so bad,
i was using a nikon D800 and a nikon 50mm f1.4 lens, shot it f1.6 ISO 100, 1/1600sec.
thanks.

lee
 

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Hi

As you have posted a very compressed and low resolution image, would you expand on the details of what you think went/is wrong.

FWIW
All I can tell from what you have posted:-
You have cropped from the whole frame for compositional purposes. Indeed in cropping it, how much of a crop is it?

As the flower subject is off centre ~ did you when using the camera shift your AF point from the centre to the flower....or did you use the centre point to focus and then recompose to position the flower 'in the frame'? Can you say how far you were from the flower subject?

In PP did you sharpen the image?
 
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hi,
it was about 2 foot away, and I focused on the head of flower or so I thought, I dont see it as sharp as it should of been, and when I zoom in on it abit the yellow part has a glow round it, couldn't upload the full size image, and id say its a 50% crop, I was just out for a walk and testing my new camera as iv just gone from a D610.
thanks.

lee
 
The point of focus is at the base of the flower and slightly behind, placing the petals nearest the viewer out of focus. Either you missed focus, moved between focussing and capture or your camera back-focuses.
 
I have so much to learn, I thought id focused on the flower, the focus point on my camera is very small, I was looking at some of my photos last night that I took of the wife that look really good but when I zoom in there not that sharp, apart from the odd one, I always focus on the eye with my 50mm lens,
and the problem with me is I see some stunning photos and think I can do the same, obviously not, but I will keep trying.
iv just been looking at some bird shots on here and now im thinking of getting a long lens, no doubt ill mess them photos up too,
I cant help buying things I think I want/need, also thinking of a macro lens for flowers and things like that:):)
thanks.

lee
 
Had a look on the PC now......

Apart from maybe some camera and/or subject movement I can see a very thin DoF and as Toni says the base of the flower is the most in focus area.

So, shooting at f1.6 from about 2ft away the DoF is approx 0.04ft (that is 12.2mm where you should see sharp focus) AFAIK a Dandelion is a tad larger across the flower than 12.2mm, so you cannot expect the whole flower head to be in focus.

In case it helps here is an online DoF calculator https://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
 
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so apart from missing focus I shouldn't really of been shooting that at f1.6?
would a macro lens be best suited to photos like this, or something like a 70-200mm f2.8.
thanks.

lee
 
burleyviking said:
so apart from missing focus I shouldn't really of been shooting that at f1.6?
would a macro lens be best suited to photos like this, or something like a 70-200mm f2.8.
thanks.

lee
Click to expand...

In general it is not about the gear but what you do with it.............................only when you find that your ability exceeds what you can achieve with the gear that you have, then look at adding to the gear to allow you to get 'the image'. It is not for me to say whether shooting at f1.6 was right or wrong because I have no idea what you intended when you took the picture!

Re: learning
DoF - this page might help you understand what it it is and how your choice of settings, distance to subject & lens focal length can make or break the image planned.
https://photographylife.com/what-is-depth-of-field

FWIW macro photography is one genre where an understanding of DoF is critical!
 
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burleyviking said:
well I like learing so I will go away and look into it more,
many thanks for your help.

lee
Click to expand...

You are welcome....................photography certainly has a learning curve ~ enjoy it :) Just remember, you take the picture the camera does not!

PS I had a gander at the D800 manual and on page 120, though very brief on info, it mentions DoF and Aperture choice with a couple of flower pictures to illustrate the effect of a small & large aperture.
 
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A few more things to think about.

The Nikon 50 1.4 simply isn’t a good enough lens to be used wide open (or near enough) on a D800 especially when focused so far away from the centre of the frame.

Now before anyone tells me they’ve managed to take a picture with the 50 1.4 I’m not suggesting you can’t take a picture only that if your scrutinising the results at pixel level no the lens isn’t capable of fully resolving the D800 sensor. Perhaps not even stopped down and certainly not wide open.

The lens may need micro adjustment to focus accurately, try shooting in live view and if you get better results than through the view finder then the lens may well need calibration.
 
my heads now in a spin, I thought they were supposed to be really good lenses,:confused:
 
its more lightly to be user error rather than the equipment, im ashamed to say it but I remember picking that dandelion and holding it up, so took the photo one handed,
please dont hate me:D
 
burleyviking said:
my heads now in a spin, I thought they were supposed to be really good lenses,:confused:
Click to expand...

burleyviking said:
its more lightly to be user error rather than the equipment, im ashamed to say it but I remember picking that dandelion and holding it up, so took the photo one handed,
please dont hate me:D
Click to expand...

As I said in a post above:-

Just use your kit.....in other words.....practice & be self critical about why the results turned out the way they did ~ wash & repeat many times to understand and improve your cameracraft.

If whilst you are improving you think a lens has an issue only then 'be concerned about it'. Please don't get worried about something that, for you, as yet is unfounded!

Pilot error is very common and even the most experienced make silly errors ;)

Knowing that by holding the flower at arm's length and holding the camera one handed has likely/potentially contributed to your unhappiness with the result is all part of the learning process.......in this case (I am not asking you to post an answer ;) ) what in your settings & technique you need to try next time to improve it!!!
 
burleyviking said:
hi all,

can anyone please tell me why what looked a good sharp photo when i was taking it ended up so bad,
i was using a nikon D800 and a nikon 50mm f1.4 lens, shot it f1.6 ISO 100, 1/160sec.
thanks.

lee
Click to expand...

Did you use a tripod and was the flower moving slightly?
I also have the D800 and that lens and find the focus is very exact. The D810 which i also has even more so without the AA filter. What i would suggest is possible a remote trigger to stop camera shake to start with and use a tripod.


Just replicated your shot so you can check the settings etc if this is of any help

4TTGDLB.jpg


Nikon D800 with Nikon 50mm f1.4 lens on a moman tripod with remote wireless shutter. Settings = Aperture F10 @1/60sec ISO 640 spot metering Manual focus

Exif file you can check out

Standard Information
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D800
Software: Ver.1.11
ImageSize: 7360x4912
ComponentsConfiguration: Y, Cb, Cr, -
CreateDate: 2020:05:06 17:58:01
DateTimeOriginal: 2020:05:06 17:58:01
ExposureTime: 1/60"
Aperture: F10.0
MaxAperture: F1.4
DepthOfFocus: 0.04 m (0.43 - 0.47)
CircleOfConfusion: 0.030 mm
HyperfocalDistance: 8.32 m
ExposureProgram: Manual
ExposureBiasValue: 0
CompressedBitsPerPixel: 1
MeteringMode: Spot
Flash: Off, Did not fire
ISO: 640
WhiteBalance: Preset1
FocalLength: 50.0 mm
FocalLength35efl: 50.0 mm (35 mm equivalent: 50.0 mm)
SensingMethod: One-chip color area
Lens spec 50mm f/1.4 G
 
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In post #14 he admits to his heinous crime and likely a prime contributor to the issue ;)


realspeed said:
Did you use a tripod and was the flower moving slightly?
I also have the D800 and that lens and find the focus is very exact. The D810 which i also has even more so without the AA filter. What i would suggest is possible a remote trigger to stop camera shake to start with and use a tripod.


Just replicated your shot so you can check the settings etc if this is of any help

4TTGDLB.jpg


Nikon D800 with Nikon 50mm f1.4 lens on a moman tripod with remote wireless shutter. Settings = Aperture F10 @1/60sec ISO 6400 spot metering Manual focus

Exif file you can check out

Standard Information
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D800
Software: Ver.1.11
ImageSize: 7360x4912
ComponentsConfiguration: Y, Cb, Cr, -
CreateDate: 2020:05:06 17:58:01
ModifyDate: 2020:05:06 17:58:01
DateTimeOriginal: 2020:05:06 17:58:01
ExposureTime: 1/60"
Aperture: F10.0
MaxAperture: F1.4
DepthOfFocus: 0.04 m (0.43 - 0.47)
CircleOfConfusion: 0.030 mm
HyperfocalDistance: 8.32 m
ExposureProgram: Manual
ExposureBiasValue: 0
CompressedBitsPerPixel: 1
MeteringMode: Spot
Flash: Off, Did not fire
ISO: 640
WhiteBalance: Preset1
FocalLength: 50.0 mm
FocalLength35efl: 50.0 mm (35 mm equivalent: 50.0 mm)
SensingMethod: One-chip color area
SceneType: Directly photographed
ColorSpace: sRGB
NoiseReduction: Off
Contrast: Normal
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
ShutterCount: 12333
LensSpec: 50mm f/1.4 G

GPS Information
GPSVersionID: 2.3.0.0

Other Information
AFAperture: 1.5
AFAreaMode: Unknown (1)
AFInfo2Version: 0100
AFPointsUsed
ActiveD-Lighting: Normal
Artist:
AutoBracketRelease: Auto Release
AutoFocus: Off
BitsPerSample: 8
BlueBalance: 0.945518
Brightness: Normal
CFAPattern: [Red,Green][Green,Blue]
ColorBalance1: 2.19140625 1.22265625 1 1
ColorComponents: 3
Compression: JPEG (old-style)
Copyright: BAZZA L
CropHiSpeed: Off (7424x4924 cropped to 7424x4924 at pixel 0,0)
CustomRendered: Normal
DateDisplayFormat: D/M/Y
DaylightSavings: Yes
DigitalZoomRatio: 1
Directory: C:\Users\barry\Desktop
DirectoryNumber: 100
EffectiveMaxAperture: 1.4
EncodingProcess: Baseline DCT, Huffman coding
ExifByteOrder: Big-endian (Motorola, MM)
ExifImageHeight: 4912
ExifImageWidth: 7360
ExifVersion: 0230
ExitPupilPosition: 93.1 mm
ExposureBracketValue: 0
ExposureDifference: 0
ExposureMode: Manual
FNumber: 10.0
FOV: 35.5 deg (0.29 m)
FileInfoVersion: 0100
FileModifyDate: 2020:05:06 17:58:04+01:00
FileName: DSC_0361.JPG
FileNumber: 0361
FileSize: 5.4 MB
FileSource: Digital Camera
FileType: JPEG
FilterEffect: n/a
FlashExposureBracketValue: 0.0
FlashExposureComp: 0
FlashInfoVersion: 0105
FlashMode: Did Not Fire
FlashSetting
FlashType
FlashpixVersion: 0100
FocalLengthIn35mmFormat: 50 mm
FocusDistance: 0.45 m
FocusMode: AF-S
FocusPosition: 0x11
GainControl: Low gain up
HighISONoiseReduction: Normal
HueAdjustment: None
ISO2: 635
ISOExpansion: Off
ISOExpansion2: Off
ISOSetting: 640
ImageBoundary: 0 0 7360 4912
ImageDataSize: 5417889
ImageHeight: 4912
ImageWidth: 7360
InteropIndex: R98 - DCF basic file (sRGB)
InteropVersion: 0100
Lens: 50mm f/1.4
LensDataVersion: 0204
LensFStops: 7.00
LensID: AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G
LensIDNumber: 160
LensType: G
LightSource: Unknown
LightValue: 9.9
MCUVersion: 162
MPFVersion: 0100
MakerNoteVersion: 2.10
MaxApertureAtMaxFocal: 1.4
MaxApertureAtMinFocal: 1.4
MaxApertureValue: 1.4
MaxFocalLength: 50.4 mm
MinFocalLength: 50.4 mm
MultiExposureAutoGain: Off
MultiExposureMode: Off
MultiExposureShots: 0
MultiExposureVersion: 0100
Orientation: Horizontal (normal)
PictureControlAdjust: Default Settings
PictureControlBase: Landscape
PictureControlName: Landscape
PictureControlQuickAdjust: Normal
PictureControlVersion: 0100
PreviewImageLength: 25139
PreviewImageStart: 14276
ProgramShift: 0
Quality: Basic
RedBalance: 1.97188
ResolutionUnit: inches
RetouchHistory: None
ScaleFactor35efl: 1.0
SceneCaptureType: Landscape
SerialNumber: 6103715
ShootingMode: Single-Frame
ShotInfoVersion: 0222
ShutterSpeed: 1/60
SubSecCreateDate: 2020:05:06 17:58:01.50
SubSecDateTimeOriginal: 2020:05:06 17:58:01.50
SubSecModifyDate: 2020:05:06 17:58:01.50
SubSecTime: 50
SubSecTimeDigitized: 50
SubSecTimeOriginal: 50
SubjectDistanceRange: Unknown
ThumbnailLength: 8610
ThumbnailOffset: 39576
Timezone: +00:00
ToningEffect: n/a
ToningSaturation: n/a
UserComment:
VRInfoVersion: 0100
VibrationReduction: Off
VignetteControl: Normal
WB_RGGBLevels: 561 313 256 269
WhiteBalanceFineTune: 0 0
XResolution: 300
YCbCrPositioning: Co-sited
YCbCrSubSampling: YCbCr4:2:2 (2 1)
YResolution: 300
Click to expand...
 
Just thought he might like a little more help with settings etc and a comparison to go by with the same setup.
My rig I used
GOJ9nQZ.jpg
 
Last edited:
realspeed said:
Did you use a tripod and was the flower moving slightly?
I also have the D800 and that lens and find the focus is very exact. The D810 which i also has even more so without the AA filter. What i would suggest is possible a remote trigger to stop camera shake to start with and use a tripod.


Just replicated your shot so you can check the settings etc if this is of any help

4TTGDLB.jpg


Nikon D800 with Nikon 50mm f1.4 lens on a moman tripod with remote wireless shutter. Settings = Aperture F10 @1/60sec ISO 640 spot metering Manual focus

Exif file you can check out

Standard Information
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D800
Software: Ver.1.11
ImageSize: 7360x4912
ComponentsConfiguration: Y, Cb, Cr, -
CreateDate: 2020:05:06 17:58:01
DateTimeOriginal: 2020:05:06 17:58:01
ExposureTime: 1/60"
Aperture: F10.0
MaxAperture: F1.4
DepthOfFocus: 0.04 m (0.43 - 0.47)
CircleOfConfusion: 0.030 mm
HyperfocalDistance: 8.32 m
ExposureProgram: Manual
ExposureBiasValue: 0
CompressedBitsPerPixel: 1
MeteringMode: Spot
Flash: Off, Did not fire
ISO: 640
WhiteBalance: Preset1
FocalLength: 50.0 mm
FocalLength35efl: 50.0 mm (35 mm equivalent: 50.0 mm)
SensingMethod: One-chip color area
Lens spec 50mm f/1.4 G
Click to expand...
With respect that’s nothing like his shot. He used F1.6 and you used f10, he handheld at 1/1600, you used a tripod and 1/60. Aside from the basic subject matter it would be hard to find two more different photos.
 
Brazo said:
With respect that’s nothing like his shot. He used F1.6 and you used f10, he handheld at 1/1600, you used a tripod and 1/60. Aside from the basic subject matter it would be hard to find two more different photos.
Click to expand...

Think about it his setting and method were wrong which is why I posted mine. you al;so forgot the daylight might have been different as well. your post 12 is a load of ***** never read so much crap
 
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burleyviking
little tip you might find helpful to quickly see a closer image first in the viewfinder without altering the settings. I use it all the time to get correct focus.

In the menu go to Custom settings - control- f2 multi selector centre button- live view-Zoom on/off- medium magnification (3 choices here) press ok button.
So when you next look at the rear screen and press the centre button you get a closer look which is easier to focus with

Irrespective of some comments I do have some experience in photography with this camera and others, such as the D70s- D200-D300-D800 and the D810. You always get The "I know better than you" people who generally never laid hands on that make or model camera, never show examples or the settings they use and only quote from books. Just ignore them
 
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realspeed said:
Think about it his setting and method were wrong which is why I posted mine.
Click to expand...
No they weren’t he was shooting wide open or near enough so needed a higher shutter speed and 1/1600 hand held is fine, iso640 on a tripod is far more of a concern.
 
Brazo said:
No they weren’t he was shooting wide open or near enough so needed a higher shutter speed and 1/1600 hand held is fine, iso640 on a tripod is far more of a concern.
Click to expand...

I have better things to do than pick holes in all your postings so goodbye
 
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@burleyviking - a lesson worth learning about photographers, especially under lockdown, is that they can can be very touchy about details upon which they disagree. Don't let it put you off. ;)
 
love a bit of aggressive banter:LOL: its all good fun, I have taken everyones advise on board, and with any hobby I have I like to read, watch and learn, im always reading and watching youtube videos, I do understand most of it but then when kit comes to it it all goes out of the window, but I have plenty of time to get out and about and practice,
I thank you all for the comments and advise, I do actually take the odd good photo, or good for me, and thats all that matters I guess(y)(y)
 
realspeed said:
Just thought he might like a little more help with settings etc and a comparison to go by with the same setup.
My rig I used
GOJ9nQZ.jpg
Click to expand...
that looks a handy thing, was looking at one a bit ago, think it was a jobby, but just presumed they were table top mini tripods,
 
One question that doesn’t seem to have come up is were you using continuous (AF-C) or single servo focus (AF-S) auto focus modes? It would be possible to focus the camera then move the camera so the plane of focus wasn’t at the point you had focus on, especially in AF-S mode (AF-C could be similar but potentially because the camera may lack AF speed and accuracy to refocus as your hand moves the camera back and forth). It could be another point to consider but I’m thinking small depth of field and single hand hold may be the main issues.

If you were to take the same image using a ‘macro’ methodology you would use manual focus and fire off several frames as you slowly move back and forth through the plane of focus. That way one image would be sharp where you wanted it or you could focus stack in post to get the whole flower in focus. The depth of field is dependant on the aperture, focal length and distance to subject. Focus stacking just sticks several photos together where different parts of the subject are in focus to create one image wherd the whole subject is in focus.
 
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