B&W Problem..camera or lab..?

Yardbent

Yardbent

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got my first B&W back from Club 35 on a CD.....:clap:

PUZZLED...:thinking:...there are flares and white patches like this ..
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BUT only on some. The next frame - an identical location/shot was perfect
Thought a camera leak would be on ALL..?
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this one and others are ok...
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showphoto.php
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no C&C as no PP - just need thoughts on Flares[?]....Thanks...:(
 
Looks like a shutter curtain issue. Perhaps on the faster speed shots the second curtain has trouble catching the first?
 
Have a look at the negative. If the film over the sprocket holes has turned grey near where you see the white patch, it's a light leak.
 
colpepper said:
Looks like a shutter curtain issue. Perhaps on the faster speed shots the second curtain has trouble catching the first?
Click to expand...

thanks..it looks like a multi-bladed metal shutter which drops vertically when I use the "Bulb" setting to see whats going on - will investigate

so a field test..?
shoot a roll - same view/light at different apertures [camera sets shutter speed on the EM]
note parameters of each frame and compare prints ...?
 
If it's a vertical shutter then the issue you have is not related to it... goes the wrong way.

Remember a small light leak will be worse the longer you leave between frames - shoot three together one after the other and the middle one will be clear, if you see what I mean?
 
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Ambermile said:
Remember a small light leak will be worse the longer you leave between frames -......
Click to expand...

Arthur
thanks - so the first frame will "see" the leak before the shot and the third will "see" the leak as the camera sits after the shot......understood

ok - looked at the negative of the worst one - the dark patch extends into the perforations...:thumbsdown:....so a light leak..??

opening the back - the seal on the back by the hinge is "tacky" and there is sticky residue along the top edge of the back plate

99% sure then ?.......have you ever done a seal refurb
there's a helpful guy on eBay but his complete service is more than i paid for the camera

or i can buy a pre-cut seal kit from USA ..."here"
 
A light leak is good, a dodgy shutter is bad! Seals are dead easy, I use sticky-back neoprene that I bought as vibration-deadening stuff for my bow. Works very well... that link for a kit looks OK but does seem a bit ott - but then you do get the cleaning kit as well. If you expect to do more than one though then this would be a better idea

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LIGHT-SEAL-RE...ccessories&hash=item58896435ba#ht_4656wt_1210
 
NickT said:
Have a look at the negative. If the film over the sprocket holes has turned grey near where you see the white patch, it's a light leak.
Click to expand...

yes it does - thanks for the tip........:thumbs:
 
Light seals are worth replacing as a matter of course on secondhand cameras. It's a tedious job as opposed to technically difficult, so best with your favourite tipple and music and take your time.

Most older SLRs typically have 5-7 foam patches to replace and any can leak as they get older. Most of my ebay purchases have had the foam shot to pieces, and the confidence a seal replacement gives you is worth the hassle IMO.

edit: I always use interslice. The gum and pieces of foam from old light seals gets everywhere, especially if the camera has been kept shut for years. At best it'll get on the film rails and negs, at worse jam the shutter. Not worth the risk.
 
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Ambermile said:
A light leak is good, a dodgy shutter is bad! ]
Click to expand...

ok - just run a toothpick along the seal channel - sticky goo :(

will order pre-cut KIT as I am useless at DIY cutting

thanks
 
colpepper said:
edit: I always use interslice. .
Click to expand...

sorry - whats that..?

luckily the interior is spotless - just some residue on the rear cover top edge which has wiped clean
 
Yardbent said:
sorry - whats that..?

luckily the interior is spotless - just some residue on the rear cover top edge which has wiped clean
Click to expand...

An ebay trader based in the US who sells pre-cut seals for most old cameras. They take about 5 days return by post and include a neat little wooden tool for poking and prodding.

As the seal sizes match the gummy patches you are removing it makes fitting much easier. They contain a complete set including mirror dampener which is always worth changing. The only cutting needed is round the frame counter (3/4 the way along top door foam, and maybe a trim when you come to the end of the door. You'll need some thinner - white spirit or lighter fuel, used v. sparingly - then it's a matter of grubbing the old gunk out and sliding the new bits into place.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/interslice/m.html
 
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I heartily recommend interslice. The seals for the thin channels are especially good and require no glue. They will be better than wool. He used to sell generic kits at ridiculously low prices and couldn't have made any profit at all. He now just sells pre-cut kits and I'm sure he'll make one up for you. He has guides for fixing all sorts of cameras at:

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html

You mentioned an EM, if that's the Nikon then that's at:

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/seal/Nikon_EM_2.pdf
 
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