Any pet photographers in?

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Adamcski

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Just wondered if there were any folks on here that predominantly work with pets.

It's an area of photography that is appealing to me and I've had a look online at the local firms / watched a few videos online but think I may have the wrong kit for it.

It appears a lot of the photographers on the net use a 70-200m 2.8 lens, and I don't have one :-(

I like taking pictures of my family and the kids / our pets. My kit I think is aimed more towards the family side of things (50 mm and 85 mm 1.8 - Lumix) on my S5. My other camera is the G9 which I really use when just wanting to travel light with the little lens I have.

Just wondered if there were any people on the forum that could share what they use and perhaps help a noobie a little.

I will just add that I'm not a professional and not looking to make money. The Lumix Pro 70-200 2.8 Lens appears to have good reviews buts is around £2,600 and that's a tall order for me...
 
Most of my pet photos are taken with my Sony 85mm f1.8 lens.
I do use my 200-600mm lens for longer range shots and running shots.
Sigma do a 100-400mm lens in L-mount which may be worth a look.
I'd use the 85mm first and see how you get on.....
 
I have taken a few over the years of my own dogs. Head studies work well

rtoysBe.jpg

be careful Of depth of field DOF for this kind of shot

QDhrI3l.jpg


for action either pan witrh the dog and blur the background

K3yVqqp.jpg
or

wait into in shot to give that movement action with background in focus

Of course shutter speed is very important to get the right effect and distance as well
you could go for something like this

ApYMXOK.jpg


It is not so much which lens as to position distance away from and DOF and of course shutter speed. getting down to dog level helps and if as a show dog shot 3/4 head on looks good. AS my wife and I had a boarding kennels licenced for 115 dogs I had plenty of chance to photograph clients dogs over 25 years
 
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Cheers for the responses. I'll stick with what I have now as I'm not rushing out to spend £2k plus on a lens.

My dog is an imperial shih tzu, so she about the same size as a small cat lol. I'll have to start lying on the floor to get shots of her lol
 
That's lovely @Chris_911 .

Do you mind me asking what kit / set up you use?

I've watched a few videos online but they all appear to be using a version of 70-200 f2.8 (Sony or Canon) or in some cases the Sigma 105 1.4 Art. These are lovely looking lenses, but my word they are expensive. The new RF 70-200 2.8 is almost £3k. I can appreciate someone making a living off this needing that kit but what about us poor hobby photographers lol
 
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Adamcski said:
That's lovely @Chris_911 .

Do you mind me asking what kit / set up you use?

I've watched a few videos online but they all appear to be using a version of 70-200 f2.8 (Sony or Canon) or in some cases the Sigma 105 1.4 Art. These are lovely looking lenses, but my word they are expensive. The new RF 70-200 2.8 is almost £3k. I can appreciate someone making a living off this needing that kit but what about us poor hobby photographers lol
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The image I posted was shot with a Nikon Z9 and Nikkor 200mm f2 (my favourite lens!).
Clearly you don't need that level to take good shots.
If you are shooting dogs on location the 70-200 f2.8 is the go-to workhorse for most pros.
But what about the 70-200 f4?. Much cheaper - I don't have any direct experience of it - and I'm not sure how the focusing speed compares with the f2.8 version. Worth investigating though.
Don't rule out secondhand lenses.
In the studio my go-to is the 85mm f1.4. Do you need f1.4? No. The f1.8 version is massively cheaper.
I tend to use wide angle lenses a lot on location too - the 14-24 range is a favourite.
 
I just nearly spilt my drink looking up your lens...WOW that's an investment and I can hand on heart state that I'm never going to be playing in that ball park lol.

The F4 for the S5 costs £1750 new and the F2.8 is around £2599 so that's £849 difference. I would have to save a while to get either if I'm honest, and would I always kick myself for not saving a little longer and getting the better lens...
 
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Anything in action an you really want 200mm or even 400mm and ideally a zoom. F2.8 is not really necessary. If Panasonic is being ridiculous why not get something like used canon 70-200 f4 is and pair it with a cheap 1dx or 5d3. That will still be far far cheaper than 2.6k and will have better af and real viewfinder
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Anything in action an you really want 200mm or even 400mm and ideally a zoom. F2.8 is not really necessary. If Panasonic is being ridiculous why not get something like used canon 70-200 f4 is and pair it with a cheap 1dx or 5d3. That will still be far far cheaper than 2.6k and will have better af and real viewfinder
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If the subject is moving does is help? I have the 70-200 L non is which I find very sharp but wonder if I am missing out on it not having is.
 
I've told the wife I need a 70-200m lens and my home set up...told her the total costs and she said I'm mad as it's just a hobby :-(

Wouldn't mind but she spent £360 on bloody makeup the other day lol

It's just not right.....lol
 
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Adamcski said:
I've told the wife I need a 70-200m lens and my home set up...told her the total costs and she said I'm mad as it's just a hobby :-(

Wouldn't mind but she spent £360 on bloody make up the other day lol

It's just not right.....lol
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All those special moments you could capture for you both to enjoy...
Just sayin'
 
That's the one, but I believe it's just for the sigma lenses and there is a list of compatible lenses for it. I asked about it in wex and they stated the autofocus wasn't great when using it.

Hobbies, they always end up being expensive lol.

To be fair £2.6k wouldn't touch what I've paid for my Warhammer 40k hobby over the years lol
 
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Hogboy said:
Yes there is
www.parkcameras.com

Sigma MC-21 Converter EF Mount To L-Mount | Park Cameras

The Sigma MC-21 Converter allows photographers to adapt Sigma EF-mount lenses to L-mount bodies, whilst retaining metering and focus functions. Order today.
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Click to expand...
I believe af would be practically unusable with that. Essentially no tracking which is a no go for this work.

Brentor said:
If the subject is moving does is help? I have the 70-200 L non is which I find very sharp but wonder if I am missing out on it not having is.
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Probably not much... You will be at over 1/400s and probably nearer 1/1000 for action shots. Unless you like slow speed panning where mode 2 kind of helps. Now for static shots where you have to use slower shutter that is a very very big deal
 
Brentor said:
If the subject is moving does is help? I have the 70-200 L non is which I find very sharp but wonder if I am missing out on it not having is.
Click to expand...

If the subject is moving you need to up the shutter speed in order to capture it... thus you dont need IS which is for lower shutter speeds
 
I'm starting to think I will just use what I have for now, get my little home set up sorted and go from there. My current camera and lenses will be fine for this and I have to question yet more outlay on lenses / cameras at my level. Now if I was planning a business venture then fair enough, but it is a hobby. Perhaps keep the 70-200 options as things to save for and aim towards in the future.

It's very easy to start running out and buying new kit and I need to keep that in check lol
 
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Thanks for posting this thread it's most intresting. It's great that the people actualy making a living as Phototgraphers are good enough to input there knowledge too.

I have taken quite a few dog portraits over the past few years and really enjoy it. Still not confident though. That's my personality.

So I was wondering what sort of images you were after ?


As most of my phots have been taken in front rooms using a softbox. That said I have taken running shots out doors with my kit with some success. I have found that bright conditions are by far the best which if you look online, not all but most runnig shots are taken in such light.

I'm not one for changing my kit I use a Canon 6d from when they first came out. When indoors i'll use my 50mm the cheap one or my 24/105L

Outdoors i'll use the same but if trying running shots I use a 200mm f2.8 prime. Never at 2.8 though. This too is a very old second hand lens, paid about £250 for it on here.

Not sure if any of this helps but thought it may.

Gaz
 
Me, well that is the issue I'm facing I think. I need to really sit and narrow down the area's I like. I love animals and my family have a lot of pets, so pictures of these would be a good place to start. I like portraits, but have no real interest in random people paying me to take their picture, it's just family shots, our kids and such.

I love going out and taking pictures of national trust places, so some landscape and urban landscape stuff also.

Being a 6 foot 4 male, I'm not overly comfortable taking pictures of people (especially kids / youngsters) walking around so I tend to shy away from street photography.

I've been given some excellent advice on this forum thus far and a few others have helped me put together a home kit, currently sat in my Amazon basket. I think that's the next step really for me.

I haven't had any issues with my camera and set up with auto focus and such, but most pros seem to use canon or Sony from what I have seen for the faster moving stuff...so I wonder if that area of action photography isn't suited to my S5.

All food for thought..
 
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Morning Adam.

You seem quite similiar to myself in most respects I enjoy taking the pet photos, still life images. Food too if we bake or cook anything worthy also family images when the urge takes.

I just looked at your camera online it's more than capable your current lenses too. Espesially if your going to buy a light/softbox at some point.

Pets portraits as far as I can see ( if not using natural light) only requires a softbox plus "reflector " sometimes.

Mind you I use that set up for people too, rightly or wrongly......

Have fun.

Gaz
 
Adamcski said:
I'm starting to think I will just use what I have for now, get my little home set up sorted and go from there. My current camera and lenses will be fine for this and I have to question yet more outlay on lenses / cameras at my level. Now if I was planning a business venture then fair enough, but it is a hobby. Perhaps keep the 70-200 options as things to save for and aim towards in the future.

It's very easy to start running out and buying new kit and I need to keep that in check lol
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IMO the most important things, in the order listed are
1. Your willingness to learn and improve
2. Your willingness to apply time and effort
3. Skill
4. Experience

And, way after these, equipment improvements can start to make a difference. But, once you've gone as far as you can without spending money on more equipment, you may find that you don't need more equipment anyway.
 
I would guess that the 70-200 users are either FF or ~ 1.5/1.6x crop users rather than 4/3 / M4/3.
 
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kennethwfd said:
Just as important is to have a love of animals, and the ability to read their body language. Both the pet and owner need to be relaxed before the shoot commences.

I'd recommend Elke Vogelsang and Diana Lundin regarding pet photography

https://iso.500px.com/elke-vogelsang-interview/

https://www.dianalundin.com/
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Very true, that's just a basic skill that I kind of assume, but shouldn't.

I met a lovely black lab yesterday, just 11 months old. His owner, a very nice guy who I've known for years, took him clay pigeon shooting for the first time, getting him used to the sound of gunfire. Sam (the dog) was tied to a screw-in stake next to each stand and behaved perfectly but when his owner removed the stake to move on to the next shooting stand, Sam jumped up with excitement and the owner raised his hand and shouted "GET DOWN! GET DOWN!" at him. Without the raised hand and the shouting Sam would have been perfectly calm.
 
Garry Edwards said:
Very true, that's just a basic skill that I kind of assume, but shouldn't.

I met a lovely black lab yesterday, just 11 months old. His owner, a very nice guy who I've known for years, took him clay pigeon shooting for the first time, getting him used to the sound of gunfire. Sam (the dog) was tied to a screw-in stake next to each stand and behaved perfectly but when his owner removed the stake to move on to the next shooting stand, Sam jumped up with excitement and the owner raised his hand and shouted "GET DOWN! GET DOWN!" at him. Without the raised hand and the shouting Sam would have been perfectly calm.
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I used to do something like that with all my non gun dog puppies. Walk them up to a clay pigeon shoot from a longish way away so they gradually got used to the bangs. Never had any problem with fireworks later — which proves nothing of course but I would still do it.
 
Lens depends on the style your after . One of the best dog photographers I know seems to shoot everything at about 16mm!! (Dog breath on Facebook) her stuff is fantastic and not the usual dog running at the camera at 200mm type stuff . (Not that there's anything wrong with that of course)
 
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Nod said:
I would guess that the 70-200 users are either FF or ~ 1.5/1.6x crop users rather than 4/3 / M4/3.
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Yes I believe they are all FF 70-200mm.

I have the S5 and the G9, but use the G9 mainly when going away (or will do as just got it) as the zoom lens I have 75-150 mm is dinky and I just use the 12-60 F2.8 - 4 Leica lens it came with as my walk about lens. Doubt I will buy any more for it.
 
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kennethwfd said:
Just as important is to have a love of animals, and the ability to read their body language. Both the pet and owner need to be relaxed before the shoot commences.

I'd recommend Elke Vogelsang and Diana Lundin regarding pet photography

https://iso.500px.com/elke-vogelsang-interview/

https://www.dianalundin.com/
Click to expand...

Thanks for those links, I will add them to my reading list (which just seems to be growing). I've been brought up around animals so believe I have the general gist of things covered. Only animals I have a slight fear of is horses as I've never had anything to do with them and they are big, powerful buggers lol
 
sphexx said:
I used to do something like that with all my non gun dog puppies. Walk them up to a clay pigeon shoot from a longish way away so they gradually got used to the bangs. Never had any problem with fireworks later — which proves nothing of course but I would still do it.
Click to expand...

A few clay shooters on here I see...I'm looking forward to going again in the coming months.
 
stumac said:
Lens depends on the style your after . One of the best dog photographers I know seems to shoot everything at about 16mm!! (Dog breath on Facebook) her stuff is fantastic and not the usual dog running at the camera at 200mm type stuff . (Not that there's anything wrong with that of course)
Click to expand...

Looks very similar to the catsdog style and a little bit of floofy studios I've looked at who are based in Canada I believe.
 
Garry Edwards said:
Very true, that's just a basic skill that I kind of assume, but shouldn't.

I met a lovely black lab yesterday, just 11 months old. His owner, a very nice guy who I've known for years, took him clay pigeon shooting for the first time, getting him used to the sound of gunfire. Sam (the dog) was tied to a screw-in stake next to each stand and behaved perfectly but when his owner removed the stake to move on to the next shooting stand, Sam jumped up with excitement and the owner raised his hand and shouted "GET DOWN! GET DOWN!" at him. Without the raised hand and the shouting Sam would have been perfectly calm.
Click to expand...


Um, the raised hand in gun dog training is usually the manual signal for 'SIT'.
 
The raised hand in this situation was read by the dog as a mixture of intimidation and excitement, reinforced by the shouting.
My youngest daughter was there at the time, she knows nothing about dogs but is a highly skilled and very well-qualified horse behaviourist, and she told me that a horse would have reacted in exactly the same way as the dog.

The point is, that when it comes to communicating with animals, common sense is very uncommon, and what is obvious to many of us is completely missed by owners.
 
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