Air show Photograhy

A

a lex

Suspended / Banned
Messages
637
Name
Alex
Edit My Images
Yes
I remember seeing a pretty helpful thread about this but after searching I can't seem to find it?

Im going to Waddington tomorrow, first time at an airshow and would obviously like to get some half decent pictures...


What sort of settings should I be using??

I know that for prop blur I need to be at around 1/160 or so? Would I be best dialing in the shutter speed I want into TV mode and seeing what aperture it selects for me?

Also, which metering should I be using? I usually have evaluative selected?

Finally, I do remember reading that selecting AV mode and then shooting would mean that i'd probably end up with silhouettes of the planes in front of the bright sky... the suggestion was to meter off the grass and use that... now, ive never really used manual mode... am I right in thinking that in simple terms that means selecting manual, sticking the ISO in and then deciding on the shutter/aperture by getting the "needle" on the meter to be central when aiming at the grass?! I hope that makes sense?!

Appreciate the help.

Thanks.
 
Hi

If your after Stopping the aircraft in flight, then I would set a shutter speed of about 1/500 and an aperture of about f8 (depending upon your lens)

For blade motion, 1/60th should be fine.

As for metering, you could meter off the grass or throw a Grey card on the floor if you want accuracy and lock your exposure to that.

I was supposed to be going but my car has failed MOT today so I am transportless but have a great day, the weather forecast looks excellent

Ian
 
if grey sky + 2/3 ex if blue sky try +1/3 ex comp. Depends if the lights behind or in front.

I use TV, 1/1000 for jets, 1/200-1/20th for props depending how i'm feeling and if i've got the red bull shakes an no mono-pod!

av or tv will silhouette the aircraft if you don't use the exposure comp. I use centre weighted average metering, AWB, centre focus point and off you go.

Most of all have fun

Charlie
 
ianbarber said:
Hi

If your after Stopping the aircraft in flight, then I would set a shutter speed of about 1/500 and an aperture of about f8 (depending upon your lens)

For blade motion, 1/60th should be fine.

As for metering, you could meter off the grass or throw a Grey card on the floor if you want accuracy and lock your exposure to that.

I was supposed to be going but my car has failed MOT today so I am transportless but have a great day, the weather forecast looks excellent

Ian
Click to expand...

Sorry for such simple questions but... 1/500 and F8... set it to that and use the ISO to get it to meter correct? Also, you say "lock exposure" simple again but simply does that mean lock the ISO/Aperture/Shutter?

Unlucky about the car... shame Doncaster isn't on my way, could of sorted a lift. :(

c_robinson said:
if grey sky + 2/3 ex if blue sky try +1/3 ex comp. Depends if the lights behind or in front.

I use TV, 1/1000 for jets, 1/200-1/20th for props depending how i'm feeling and if i've got the red bull shakes an no mono-pod!

av or tv will silhouette the aircraft if you don't use the exposure comp. I use centre weighted average metering, AWB, centre focus point and off you go.

Most of all have fun

Charlie
Click to expand...

Cheer Charlie... so using the compensation means I can use AV/TV mode and not worry about metering off grass/grey? Also, when selecting the speed for the type of plane, just use the aperture it selects for me?

Thanks.
 
Good points. 1/500 f/8 (ISO 100) is a good starting point. This works well if there is blue clear sky. Generally, this will give you a good exposure. Props vary depending on the type. A turbo prop usually requires less shutter time (high number) over a piston prop (lower number). As a guide I would vary it between 1/125 and 1/250. Catching the aircraft at the right time is very important. Knowing when the throttle will be wide open and when its cut has a major effect on which shutter speed to use. In both instances the prop may become invisible and sometimes even freeze. Rotary aircraft range from 1/60 to 1/125. In order to achieve sharp results you'll need to have a steady hand or good panning techniques with a monopod or tripod setup (Kirk head, etc,..).

As for metering, grass is a useful option, concrete or even the back of your hand. The only problem with that is each object has its own unique reflective properties. These properties effect the exposure and thus won't provide a 100% accurate reading. If possible take a couple of readings from the aircraft while they in the static display. Write the values down and apply them during the display. The light shouldn't change too much but it provides for a more accurate on the fly adjustment over trying to guess.

I'll add one more thing while I'm at it. A lot of people use continuous focus to track moving objects but using the back button auto focus technique in single servo mode renders great results. As the aircraft are so far away the focus changes little during the course of the display. By activating back button focus you bypass the risk of the camera failing to track the aircraft or, if you are finding it difficult to keep it on a focus point the camera may hunt backwards and forwards for a lock leaving you with no shot.

Good luck.

EDIT: The setting above are for using the camera in its M mode (Manual).
 
ianbarber said:
Interesting point.
Not sure if you have Nikon but do you mean: get the object in fucus by using the AF-ON button, then release the putton and just track the aircraft and the focus should stay locked
Click to expand...

Yeah sort of. The focus won't change until you hit the AF-ON button again. It is 100% controlled by the user. Essentially there is no tracking.
 
King_Boru said:
Good points. 1/500 f/8 (ISO 100) is a good starting point. This works well if there is blue clear sky. Generally, this will give you a good exposure. Props vary depending on the type. A turbo prop usually requires less shutter time (high number) over a piston prop (lower number). As a guide I would vary it between 1/125 and 1/250. Catching the aircraft at the right time is very important. Knowing when the throttle will be wide open and when its cut has a major effect on which shutter speed to use. In both instances the prop may become invisible and sometimes even freeze. Rotary aircraft range from 1/60 to 1/125. In order to achieve sharp results you'll need to have a steady hand or good panning techniques with a monopod or tripod setup (Kirk head, etc,..).

As for metering, grass is a useful option, concrete or even the back of your hand. The only problem with that is each object has its own unique reflective properties. These properties effect the exposure and thus won't provide a 100% accurate reading. If possible take a couple of readings from the aircraft while they in the static display. Write the values down and apply them during the display. The light shouldn't change too much but it provides for a more accurate on the fly adjustment over trying to guess.

I'll add one more thing while I'm at it. A lot of people use continuous focus to track moving objects but using the back button auto focus technique in single servo mode renders great results. As the aircraft are so far away the focus changes little during the course of the display. By activating back button focus you bypass the risk of the camera failing to track the aircraft or, if you are finding it difficult to keep it on a focus point the camera may hunt backwards and forwards for a lock leaving you with no shot.

Good luck.

EDIT: The setting above are for using the camera in its M mode (Manual).
Click to expand...


Thanks for that... just the metering bit.. I just can never get my head around it... when you say meter off your hand/grass etc what do I do...

Put in manual... set say ISO 100... and then dial in the shutter speed and aperture so that the meter in the view finder is showing correct exposure?

Thanks.
 
a lex said:
when you say meter off your hand/grass etc what do I do...

Put in manual... set say ISO 100... and then dial in the shutter speed and aperture so that the meter in the view finder is showing correct exposure?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Aim the camera at a patch of grass or hand or gray card and set the exposure.

Metering is completely dependent on the day and determining the correct exposure is down to user experience. A dull day will require a different metering technique over a bright sunny day. So, by aiming the camera at the back of your hand and setting the exposure accordingly depends on the light. Lining up the dots doesn't mean the exposure is correct. Perhaps you should consider investing in a good digital photography book to get to grips with how a camera analyzes and inevitably controls light. This will give you a better understanding than I can. It will also allow you to digest the information over time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top