AI-Servo, Focusing, and Custom Buttons (was Panning...)

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Ok, have had my camera for a couple of months now and starting to feel like I can get some ok shots when I take my time and think about what I'm doing. However, to date everything has been static and I've decided it's time to attempt some moving stuff! :eek:

Obviously, one 'skill' is panning and this is where I have a shed load of questions...

1. I have a 70-300 lens with IS. Should this be turned off for panning? The guy in the shop said 'yes'.

2. Is there a correct or preferred stance/technique that would help me considerably?

3. Is hand-held the best way? (looking at some past shots I see I shot 1/50 at 300mm with IS, which seems good?) Presumably a tripod is out, but what about monopod?

4. Should I be using AI-Servo for auto focusing? And how do I do this? I presume I locate my object, half depress, then it/they will stay in focus even if the distance to lens changes as I pan. And if I am half depressed and loose what I am panning, but see something else in the viewfinder, would the AI-Servo recognise that as the main subject now and put that in focus?

Sorry point #4 is so long. And apologies for so many questions, but I really need some advice before I tackle moving objects otherwise I'm just going to produce another pile of digital manure! ...and end up :bang:
 
1. Your IS lens should have two different IS modes, one for movement in any direction & one for side to side stabilisation - you'd have to check your manual for that one though.

2. Stand comfortably with your legs about shoulder width apart, elbows tucked in (the standard lens holding method - I'll see if I can find the link that explains it) & when you begin to pan, turn the top half of your body rather than just your arms/hands (make sure it is a smooth movement too).

3. I prefer hand held panning but I've also used a monopod & found it ok but a tad restrictive - for something like motorsport where you can tell roughly where the target is going to be you should be fine though :thumbs:

4. I'd always recommend using AI servo (I even use it for static objects) If you don't have your camera set up with the * button as your focus button then I'd recommend reading up on that too :thumbs: That would pretty much answer all of number 4's questions too. You can pick your targets with servo by moving your focal point over the new target whilst holding the focus button.

Hope this helps a bit, I'll see if I can find some links that may help :thumbs:

No such thing as a dumbass question btw mate :thumbs:

Edit: Check out my first reply here: http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=41580&highlight=star+button
 
Your feet should be pointing in the area you will eventually shoot.
i.e. you are unwinding your body into a more natural stance.
 
I did do this panning article some time ago, but we now seem to have lost the diagrams unfortunately. I'll try to get them done again - today hopefully, in the meantime I hope the text of the article makes some sense to you.

CLICKY
 
Diagrams now replaced. :thumbs:
 
Thanks for the input (and article CT). Looks like I need to do a bit of reading and figure out programming this * button and use of AI-Servo first. I gotta say, from that linked post, I'm not sure I understand. But I'll wait til I've read the manual too (sorry, I'm carp at reading manuals).

However... Point #1

I've got the lens manual at work here and had a look regarding the 2 IS settings. One for x, one for x+y, as stated above, so that seems to make sense. SORT OF!

The manual says "In den folgenden..." sorry, that's the german bit. In English, it says "The IS might not be fully effective in the following cases: You move the camera for a panned shot".

This seems to contradict the advice above and is more in keeping with what I was told in the shop. ie: It won't be any use when panning.

Not doubting your advice MooMike, just slightly confused having seen this in manual.
 
How do you know what version? Mine is EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM. Looks as per the one in the link.
 
I'm a Nikon man but if yours is the same then I guess with the right IS mode selected you should be able to pan fine.
 
Ok, I might go and sit by the side of the road and practice later this week.
 
Morning all. :)

Ok, I am now completely baffled as to what/why I have changed the * button as per point 4 above.

Based on what I have read above and in the link, I now have my camera in AI-Servo with the * set so CFN 4 - option 3. Now, when I half depress the shutter, the camera doesn't auto-focus. However, if I press the * button the auto-focus works, and while keep * depressed the Servo adjusts focus continually.

This means, in practice, that if I am shooting something static, I press * while the lens focuses, then release *, half depress shutter, fully depress shutter. For moving items I press * and keep my thumb on it whilst also half depressing shutter ready for the moment to take the shot, when I then fully depress shutter.

Now slap me round the chops with a wet kipper, but has that not just made the whole focusing process a whole lot more complicated, with more knobs than a big brother house full of contestants?
 
Think I'll wait for a Canon menu option expert, I'm sure one will be along soon and get you sorted.
 
The main reason for moving AF to the * button is to seperate focusing and metering from each other - effectively you can focus on one point and meter for another.

If does take a while to get used to it but most people find once they've switched they prefer it.

When you shooting in One Shot/Static mode you don't need to release the * button before pressing the shutter, just shoot.
 
Setting focus to the * button & using AI servo has a great many benefits over the standard focussing/metering methods.
As pxl8 said, it allows separate focus & metering & also allows you to ensure the metering for the shot is calculated the instant you press the shutter - very useful for shooting things that are moving in & out of lit/shaded areas.

The main benefit for me was the fact that you have each focussing mode at the press/release of one button.

If you are shooting a football match for example & are tracking a player going for a long shot at goal (you hold down the * button & are now following his movement using AI Servo) He shoots at goal (you have released the * button & panned across to the goalie, when the focal point is covering the goal area you repress the * button to recommence AI Servo focussing to try to catch the shot - this releasing the * button on the way across has stopped the camera hunting for focus & improved your chances of getting the shot already) The ball hits the crossbar & the player falls to his knees crying like a big child (you have released the * button again & panned back to the player - as soon as the camera has focussed on the player again, you release the * button again & as the camera is no longer following any moving objects, the focus stays locked where you left it (same as One Shot focussing :)) As soon as he is back on his feet & starts moving again you simply press the * button again to resume the AI Servo tracking of him :thumbs:

Hope this helps a bit more, changing my focus to this button (when I still used Canon) was the best change/suggestion I ever received for improving my shots & keeper rate :thumbs: There are other benefits for this method too, It's not something people normally get used to very fast & sometimes takes a while to get used to - well worth a bit of perseverance though imho :thumbs:
 
A very good lesson there by CT, :thumbs:
 
CT said:
Diagrams now replaced. :thumbs:
Click to expand...

They are the greates i have ever seen, the feet are great :lol:

With the IS my 70-200 2.8 has 2 modes mode one is all directions mode 2 is horizontal :D
 
Thanks Mike. A lot to get my head around, but will try and 'walk through it' with my camera when I get home tonite :)
 
Great explanation Moomike. I could never see the benefit of using the * button for autofocus but now I do.

I think I will give this a go next time I do some Rugby or Motorsports...
 
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