Advise for Rugby League

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Taff

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Weather depending tomorrow I am going to go to the Rugby Club I used to play for and shoot the Game of League that is going on there tomorrow so I was after some advise.

I believe (correct me if wrong) the best settings are 1/800 at wide open on apature with ISO as it comes however what lens would the advise be to use, I have the following

Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm 1:3.5 - 5.6G ED
NIKON ED AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200 mm f/4-5.6G Telephoto
SIGMA 70 - 300mm f/4-5.6 DG Macro Telephoto Zoom
Sigma 150 - 500mm F5-6.3 APO DG OS

Ideally I would rather stick to just the one body my D7000 so do I use it on a monopod or Tripod or hand held.

Its only an amateur match for me to practice as I would like to shoot more sports going forward, any advice would be great.

Also would you use 3d Tracking focus or different.
 
Proud2btaff said:
I believe (correct me if wrong) the best settings are 1/800
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Your wrong..


Proud2btaff said:
at wide open on apature with ISO as it comes however what lens would the advise be to use, I have the following

Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm 1:3.5 - 5.6G ED
NIKON ED AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200 mm f/4-5.6G Telephoto
SIGMA 70 - 300mm f/4-5.6 DG Macro Telephoto Zoom
Sigma 150 - 500mm F5-6.3 APO DG OS

Ideally I would rather stick to just the one body my D7000 so do I use it on a monopod or Tripod or hand held.

Its only an amateur match for me to practice as I would like to shoot more sports going forward, any advice would be great.

Also would you use 3d Tracking focus or different.
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If your only using 1 body then personally the 70-300

your exposure should be wide open with that lens... set the iso your happy wiht and whatever shutter is left is what you gte.. if its too slow then up the iso.... if a really nice sunny day and your wide open and low iso your shutter will be way over 800.. which is why you should never give a shutter speed as a target.. the shutter speed is what you can achieve after setting iso and apertute.... the minimum you need changes on lots of variables such as how steady you are (monopod - dont setup a tripod near the pitch) the focul length of lens + camera crop thigns like that..

take a stool... stay low.. use monopod.. dont chase the game.... take shots with ball in picture and with more faces than backsides in view :)
 
KIPAX said:
If your only using 1 body then personally the 70-300

your exposure should be wide open with that lens... set the iso your happy wiht and whatever shutter is left is what you gte.. if its too slow then up the iso.... if a really nice sunny day and your wide open and low iso your shutter will be way over 800.. which is why you should never give a shutter speed as a target.. the shutter speed is what you can achieve after setting iso and apertute.... the minimum you need changes on lots of variables such as how steady you are (monopod - dont setup a tripod near the pitch) the focul length of lens + camera crop thigns like that..

take a stool... stay low.. use monopod.. dont chase the game.... take shots with ball in picture and with more faces than backsides in view :)
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Thanks KIPAX, I will give it a go tomorrow then if I can.

The 1/800 was what I read on another thread giving advise so glad I asked. I was going to have the camera on Auto ISO limited at 3200 to allow me to be at that speed, what is the lowest shutter speed I should allow the camera to drop too if it does go overcast etc, hopefully it will be a nice clear day so shouldn't have an issue of the shutter speed dropping low anyway.

Thanks for your advise.
 
as said theres different things to take into consideration... one person can hand hold a 300m lens and get good steady shots with a 400 shutter.. another person needs 800 with same lens and setup...

when your talking lowest shutter you can go it really depends on a lot of things.. but most important... why ask? seriously.. it goes as low as it goes.. when you opened your lens as fara s you can and upped your iso as much as you can and the shutter is still dropping.. what can you do? nothing :) go for the fastest shutter you can get.. never make a decision on a low shutter for field sports.. if it goes low its because you couldnt stop it ..


hopefully I am explaning it right and you see what I mean :)
 
KIPAX said:
as said theres different things to take into consideration... one person can hand hold a 300m lens and get good steady shots with a 400 shutter.. another person needs 800 with same lens and setup...

when your talking lowest shutter you can go it really depends on a lot of things.. but most important... why ask? seriously.. it goes as low as it goes.. when you opened your lens as fara s you can and upped your iso as much as you can and the shutter is still dropping.. what can you do? nothing :) go for the fastest shutter you can get.. never make a decision on a low shutter for field sports.. if it goes low its because you couldnt stop it ..


hopefully I am explaning it right and you see what I mean :)
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I do and again thanks for your help.
 
Great advice from Kipax!

Only think I would add is when I started out and often now I used / use aperture priority, set my aperture to what I want and then manual ISO as Kipax says to achieve the shutter speed you can get / and or happy with. Don't use auto ISO as you were asking about in post #3.
 
Mrrikki said:
Great advice from Kipax!

Only think I would add is when I started out and often now I used / use aperture priority, set my aperture to what I want and then manual ISO as Kipax says to achieve the shutter speed you can get / and or happy with. Don't use auto ISO as you were asking about in post #3.
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Yeah thanks Rikki, I will take on board what KIPAX has said and hopefully get some good photos tomorrow.
 
Not to contradict what Tony's advice is rather to embelish it :). Always use a monopod if you have one available!!, why risk shakey shots when the thing's made to staberlise an image?.
I agree with the 70-300 it's the one to give grater scope.
The Nikon D7000 has great noise capability so unless it is really dark by all means use Auto ISO set to a max of 6400 this should at least give you the min set shutter speed of 640 given the f4/5.6 max appature!.
you won't catch a kicked or even swiftly passed ball sharp at that but the play is often slow enough for the figures especially if your head on to some of the action!

Good Luck & please post up some images for viewing. Kind regards Graham.
 
You also asked about auto-focus. I would use single point, continuous mode.
 
Mrrikki said:
Great advice from Kipax!

Only think I would add is when I started out and often now I used / use aperture priority, set my aperture to what I want and then manual ISO as Kipax says to achieve the shutter speed you can get / and or happy with. Don't use auto ISO as you were asking about in post #3.
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Care to explain that one as i shot Rugby League at the very highest level and used Auto ISO on many occasions when light/shade/shadows were variable, it'll certainally get you out of a hole if shooting at the likes of Wembley with that 50/50 split between bright sunshine and dark shade.
 
I was referring to using aperture priority and I would not use auto iso for sports while using that.

I agree with you when you use the shade example in places like Wembely although I have never shot there, manual with auto iso would be useful which I assume is what you are referring to?

So I stand by what I was saying when describing using aperture priority mode.
 
Nope, why not use it in aperture priority, in changing light like i said before youre having to constantly change the ISO on the fly to maintain your shutter speed in the required range and in some circumstances there can be a 4-5 stop swing of the ISO, there are many grounds with the dreaded 50/50 split, many grounds where shooting under floodlights theres a massive drop off in light in the corners

Now im not saying you need to or have to shoot with auto ISO in AV mode, i am saying it makes no sense to tell an inexperienced shooter NOT to use it when it can be a very very useful method of shooting, set it, forget it and concentrate on the game.

You really should be getting out of aperture priority mode anyway if you want better control
 
Obviously I gave rubbish advice and apologise for that then. I would not use auto iso in aperture priority mode myself.

I agree and I do shoot manual sometimes it all depends, today doing junior football tournaments it was quicker and easier to be in aperture mode, I think it's easier for beginners when getting used to the exposure triangle.
 
KIPAX said:
as said theres different things to take into consideration... one person can hand hold a 300m lens and get good steady shots with a 400 shutter.. another person needs 800 with same lens and setup...

when your talking lowest shutter you can go it really depends on a lot of things.. but most important... why ask? seriously.. it goes as low as it goes.. when you opened your lens as fara s you can and upped your iso as much as you can and the shutter is still dropping.. what can you do? nothing :) go for the fastest shutter you can get.. never make a decision on a low shutter for field sports.. if it goes low its because you couldnt stop it ..


hopefully I am explaning it right and you see what I mean :)
Click to expand...
Not true with some Nikon cameras, use the Active D Lighting feature and set it to high or extra high and you will gain 1 full stop extra of shutter speed, ie, your shutter speed will double from what it was.

It will lighten and add a tiny bit more noise to the dark shadow areas so i always under expose by 1/3rd of a stop to compensate which also has the knock on effect of giving you a little more shutter speed

In effect it can get you from shooting wide open at max ISO with a shutter speed of 1/400sec and thinking of packing up and going home to wide open at max ISO with a shutter speed of between 1/800sec-1/1000sec
 
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Thanks for that tip Gary, I look forward to trying it when the nights start drawing in - not long now!
 
Gary Coyle said:
Not true with some Nikon cameras, use the Active D Lighting feature and set it to high or extra high and you will gain 1 full stop extra of shutter speed, ie, your shutter speed will double from what it was.

It will lighten and add a tiny bit more noise to the dark shadow areas so i always under expose by 1/3rd of a stop to compensate which also has the knock on effect of giving you a little more shutter speed

In effect it can get you from shooting wide open at max ISO with a shutter speed of 1/400sec and thinking of packing up and going home to wide open at max ISO with a shutter speed of between 1/800sec-1/1000sec
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It was like that at the game at Dewsbury I covered alongside you last season. I got soaking wet though.. :(
 
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