Advice on a Stopper filter for my RB67 and Nikon FE2

Mr Bump

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This year I plan on doing some playing with a stopper to do some slow down stuff maybe waterfall or river water kind of shots.
I ultimately want to use my RB67 for that but for the benefits of learning would be easier to practice on my 35mm stuff probably my Nikon FE2.

I would need to buy the filter sized for the RB67 which I think is 77mm and use a step up adapter to bring it down to 52mm for the Nikon.

Any thoughts on a budget stopper?
 
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I grabbed one of these from fleabay on the offchance that they may be okay... I've only done a couple of test frames on the Digital camera I'm afraid, haven't really been able to get out and use it in anger, but for the money it's actually surprisingly good, pretty accurate 10 stopper, and reasonably accurate colour-cast wise - certainly better than a couple of branded filters i've used in the past... okay, it's no Lee or Hitech system, but it's £11 posted...
 

I think that a ten-stop filter would be way too strong for most rivers and waterfalls.

I also think you'd be better using the Cokin P system or something similar with drop-in filters. I find them much easier to work with. I use the Cokin P holder with Cromatek and Hi-Tech brand filters myself.

You can use them with any lens as long as you buy the appropriate size of adapter ring for your lens.
 
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Remember you can use something like FP4 or even GP3 and you only really need a filter with a couple of stops, a narrow aperture and your on to reciprocity failure and 10 minutes exposures before you even mean too.

Also you can use a 72mm filter on 90% of RB lenses.
 
I bought a piece of welding glass from ebay.

My one is sized for a Cokin P holder but to my shame I haven't tried it out yet. From looking through it, it'll probably give a strong green cast which I'm hoping can be sorted out in post. But it's hard to find something that'll beat it for the cost, though you'll need to find the right size for your holder.
 
Remember you can use something like FP4 or even GP3 and you only really need a filter with a couple of stops

Or use Pan F at EI 25 and you probably won't need a filter at all.


Steve.
 
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ok ordered the matt filter box and 2x lens adapters as above just need to find some square filters now :-)
 
Filter thread on my 127mm lens is 77mm, not 72mm. Luckily I already had a B+W ten stop filter from my digital gear which is also 77mm, but I haven't actually got round to trying it out with film yet. Need to get my head round reciprocity failure first :lol:

Slot in type filters are a good choice as you don't have to keep unscrewing filters every time you want to recompose etc. That gets very old very quickly
 

Wow, you move fast. I use a Cokin P type holder, so I don't really know the specifics of the Cromatek holder, which is different.

I believe that the Cromatek holders are distinct in that they can only take a single Cokin P-sized ND grad filter (NDs and other types won't fit, I don't think), while the other available slots are for Cokin A-sized filters. You'll have to double check this though.
 
I have the 90mm for my RB67 which is 77mm as well.
I have ordered the lightbox just need to sort out a slot in filter.
 
Filter thread on my 127mm lens is 77mm, not 72mm. Luckily I already had a B+W ten stop filter from my digital gear which is also 77mm, but I haven't actually got round to trying it out with film yet. Need to get my head round reciprocity failure first :LOL:

Slot in type filters are a good choice as you don't have to keep unscrewing filters every time you want to recompose etc. That gets very old very quickly
I have the 90mm for my RB67 which is 77mm as well.
I have ordered the lightbox just need to sort out a slot in filter.


Yeah you need a step down ring but the 72mm filters do not vignette.
 
I think that a ten-stop filter would be way too strong for most rivers and waterfalls.

Yup, me too. If it's blurry water you're after you don't usually need more than about 1/3 of a second to get somewhere near, a second or two is usually enough to blur it completely so anything longer than that isn't going to really change anything or give any benefit. 10 stops is a tremendous amount to slow your shutter down by to not see any real difference (it would make a 1/100th exposure a 10 second one!)

The nice thing about medium format is you can stop the lens right the way down and not have to worry about stuff like diffraction, so maybe an ND8 or ND16 might work better than a 10 stop?
 
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