1.2M high or more bench legs???

Box Brownie

Box Brownie

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Hi all

Try as I might I cannot find 1.2M min height table/bench legs :thinking:

I am trying to plan out creating a high(?) level bridge shelf to straddle some shelf/low level filing cabinet.........so the legs need to high enough to clear the max height..

On the legs, I will get a sawn & planed wood (worktop?) approx 1.45M long by approx 0.48M wide to create the standing level "worktop" to put my printer amongst items...... :)

But I need to start with some commercially available legs :)

As I mentioned my research has so far thrown up nothing of that height :(

TIA for your insights and pointers :)
 
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Steep said:
Wooden fenceposts? or decking posts? Depends if you want furniture looking wood or don't mind the rough look.
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Hmmm! :thinking:

I was hoping for something more 'furniture like' as this is indoors and the OH would not welcome garden grade wood in the house ;) As well as that furniture legs come with their mounting fitments ready to fix to the worktop :)

Cheers.
 
Can you not fix to the wall with fancy brackets or do it as a floating shelf?

When the other half couldn't get table legs she liked, I had to make them..... Flat steel curved into a radius on each side with circles and curves joining them together. Flat black finish ;)
 
Newel posts for stairs...
If wanting plainer/simpler/cheaper (lower grade pine); maybe deck railing posts inverted? It's not too hard to flatten the top of the ball to make more of a pad foot if desired. And there are a variety of styles of either available.
 

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AgentOrange76 said:
Can you not use some sort of leg like this

Youyijia 1pc Table Leg 710-1100mm Height Adjustment Breakfast Bar Worktop Support Table Leg for furniture Support (Chrome Plated) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Great prices on your favourite Home brands, and free delivery on eligible orders.
www.amazon.co.uk


I have seen options where there is a cup top and bottom you can fix to the top and bottom surface
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Thanks for the link......I missed that one in my searching.

I see that there are various suppliers of what seem to be the same product.

At 110cm that I think is workable if I use 10cm batten across each end of the worktop to achieve my ideal minimum of 120cm high.

Good food for thought and determine the best type & source of the worktop part.
 
See if there are any wood turners in the area that could turn you a set on their lathe?
 
Box Brownie said:
Thanks for the link......I missed that one in my searching.

I see that there are various suppliers of what seem to be the same product.

At 110cm that I think is workable if I use 10cm batten across each end of the worktop to achieve my ideal minimum of 120cm high.

Good food for thought and determine the best type & source of the worktop part.
Click to expand...


These are only for support ...

I think if you are going to fix a batten to a wall and then have 2 of these at the front would be ok ... but not if you want it to be free-standing using 4 of these.

If you want a free-standing table you need to build a frame with a leg at each corner.

Go to a proper timber merchant and see what they have!
 
Tigger.ufo said:
These are only for support ...

I think if you are going to fix a batten to a wall and then have 2 of these at the front would be ok ... but not if you want it to be free-standing using 4 of these.

If you want a free-standing table you need to build a frame with a leg at each corner.

Go to a proper timber merchant and see what they have!
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Yes, 4 legs for a freestanding 'version' is my plan.

I have found a kitchen worktops place online and I will email them to see if they have an offcut in beech wood or beech laminate. These are 40mm thick and as such should not need any reinforcement frame underneath it. Unless/if I need some extra height (need to re-measure....110cm might be high enough???) then battens on the two short sides with on one long side, leaving the front free of obstruction :)
 
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Tigger.ufo said:
These are only for support ...

I think if you are going to fix a batten to a wall and then have 2 of these at the front would be ok ... but not if you want it to be free-standing using 4 of these.

If you want a free-standing table you need to build a frame with a leg at each corner.

Go to a proper timber merchant and see what they have!
Click to expand...
It was the quick example but lots of desk style tables use a leg with a collar that attaches to a table top. if there is no lateral force applied and as seems the case restricted on 3 sides i dont see an issue. A simple although industrial look would be 2 foot units and a scaffold tube leg per corner.
 
AgentOrange76 said:
It was the quick example but lots of desk style tables use a leg with a collar that attaches to a table top. if there is no lateral force applied and as seems the case restricted on 3 sides i dont see an issue. A simple although industrial look would be 2 foot units and a scaffold tube leg per corner.
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Re: lateral forces ~ none intended or all being well likely but a good point to be conscious of! Perhaps a 'mitigation' of two small "L" brackets fixed to worktop and the wall, to be there for stability not support???
 
Box Brownie said:
Re: lateral forces ~ none intended or all being well likely but a good point to be conscious of! Perhaps a 'mitigation' of two small "L" brackets fixed to worktop and the wall, to be there for stability not support???
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We have a piece of kitchen worktop (2m x 0.6m) with legs very similar to those in the link James posted. They are not quite as high(about 90cm) but the top is wobbly. If I was doing the same again I'd go for a batten on wall or L brackets.

Dave
 
im no engineer but I have put together enough tables used for display purposes. 1.2m does mean there are is more leverage so less force on the leg will have a greater impact on the mounting point. I have a 3m worksurface in my shed, it uses 3 of those types of legs and does have a batten running the length of it and its rock solid, its out of site as its got a freezer and other stuff piled underneath

Rather than L brackets with long parts radiating from the angle go for something thats short but wide - something like a door hinge dimension so that there is 2 or 3 fixing points to the wall and the under neath, These will be less visiable. There are plastic blocks but these look ugly.
 
Tringa said:
We have a piece of kitchen worktop (2m x 0.6m) with legs very similar to those in the link James posted. They are not quite as high(about 90cm) but the top is wobbly. If I was doing the same again I'd go for a batten on wall or L brackets.

Dave
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AgentOrange76 said:
im no engineer but I have put together enough tables used for display purposes. 1.2m does mean there are is more leverage so less force on the leg will have a greater impact on the mounting point. I have a 3m worksurface in my shed, it uses 3 of those types of legs and does have a batten running the length of it and its rock solid, its out of site as its got a freezer and other stuff piled underneath

Rather than L brackets with long parts radiating from the angle go for something thats short but wide - something like a door hinge dimension so that there is 2 or 3 fixing points to the wall and the under neath, These will be less visiable. There are plastic blocks but these look ugly.
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Thanks both for the insights.

I would like to make it with 4 legs do that as needed it can be located without needing find something to lean it against in the meantime.

Suffice to say, where something needs fixing to a wall I tend to over engineer it where weight bearing is involved but the potential for lateral forces in this scenario will/should low but I will provide suitable wall attachments as appropriate :)
 
Box Brownie said:
I have found a kitchen worktops place online and I will email them to see if they have an offcut in beech wood or beech laminate. These are 40mm thick and as such should not need any reinforcement frame underneath it.
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No, but 40mm worktop is awfully heavy.....you'll want some nice strong legs :)
 
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JonathanRyan said:
No, but 40mm worktop is awfully heavy.....you'll want some nice strong legs :)
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A valid point! The piece i seek is about 120cm x 48 to 50cm so not a huge size. Plus, though not the exact one linked above(?) ......I think one of identical type mentioned :thinking: 50kg max load?
 
Box Brownie said:
A valid point! The piece i seek is about 120cm x 48 to 50cm so not a huge size. Plus, though not the exact one linked above(?) ......I think one of identical type mentioned :thinking: 50kg max load?
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Direct pressure on top ...
 
Tigger.ufo said:
Direct pressure on top ...
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I surmise all weight ratings will be 'compression' and even if each leg is 10kg rated, four of them I expect to be fine as none will be bearing the max load because of load distribution across the whole worktop. But the higher the individual max load the better IMO.
 
Box Brownie said:
A valid point! The piece i seek is about 120cm x 48 to 50cm so not a huge size. Plus, though not the exact one linked above(?) ......I think one of identical type mentioned :thinking: 50kg max load?
Click to expand...

That size in beech will weigh about 17 kilos.
 
JonathanRyan said:
That size in beech will weigh about 17 kilos.
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Ah! thanks for that......well, weight aids stability :) Though it would mean the CoG would cause quite a crash should it ever tip over, hence a real need to provide a fixing to the wall.
 
Box Brownie said:
Ah! thanks for that......well, weight aids stability :) Though it would mean the CoG would cause quite a crash should it ever tip over, hence a real need to provide a fixing to the wall.
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Yes, angle bracket discretely fastened underneath should do it. Or one of those ties you get with Ikea wardrobes.

You could save a lot of weight and a little money by getting it in 27mm. Should be plenty strong enough - a shelf would only normally be 18mm.
 
Box Brownie said:
Thanks for the link......I missed that one in my searching.

I see that there are various suppliers of what seem to be the same product.

At 110cm that I think is workable if I use 10cm batten across each end of the worktop to achieve my ideal minimum of 120cm high.

Good food for thought and determine the best type & source of the worktop part.
Click to expand...

I used that sort of leg to support one corner of my kitchen worktop. Being height adjustable is very useful. Got them from B&Poo.
 
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Thanks again all for insights & feedback.

I have done a rethink and ordered a 'unit' of IKEA Ivar shelving. It will not give me the length I was planning but it will straddle the floorstanding unit we have and provide more shelving.

Structurally, I will not be able to place the bottommost shelf but I have order extra set of the bracing struts that fix to the back of the frame, to compensate for lateral forces. And will as they state fix it at the top to the wall to stop toppling.
 
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