No, I only use this tone with people who waste my time by posting irrelevancies over the why's and wherefore's. It's my business as to why I want to do it. . If you don't know the answer, say so. You've been spectacularly unhelpful by the way - I can see your profile descriptor is pretty...
If it can be used more than once and replenished then your theory on maintaining top quality makes no sense. That could only be achieved by using it as a 1-shot solution - the variations introduced by prior usage mitigates against it.
Gee, if only I and about a dozen others asking the same question on various forums had thought of that... :rolleyes:
Asked and (not) answered. They apparently prefer everyone uses it at 1+4.
Trying to find a definitive set of timings for Ilfotec DDX at 'other than' 1+4 dilution is driving me nuts...
After an exhausting afternoon scrolling through years' worth of posts on various forums, I'm just about to slash my wrists.
I'm getting timings which vary between 13 minutes and 20.30...
I've been grubbing around trying to get what I'd call decent quality images from Fomapan 100 without much success until just recently.
I remember getting pretty smooth results from FP4 and Plus-X Pan using D-76 and based my first experiments on that, comparing them to stuff I shot in the 80s and...
Well I initially bought mine after a well-known conflict and documentary photographer claimed they were better suited to his style of photography - one I wished to emulate as much as possible (I think we all go through stages of thinking that having the right sort of camera will make us better...
Reliable or not, they can be a bit flimsy if you are less than careful. I managed to break two back in the day before switching to Nikon (actually one OM-1n and an OM-2n).
Nikon are obviously heavier but less prone to impact-related damage, in my experience. Both of my Ollys suffered crushed...
More playing around with Fomapan - this time Foma 400 rated at 200
ID-11 1+2, 20C for 12 minutes.
Slightly underdeveloped, so these probably could have gone another 3 or maybe even 4 minutes...
Nikon F3 + Nikkor Ai-35/2 and yellow filter...
Taken on consecutive days, so I got quite lucky with...
Some shots from last week...
Fomapan 100 at box speed
Ilford ID-11, 1+2, 13.45 @ 20C - Ilford dev method and Ilford wash method
Nikon F3HP + Nikkor Ai 35/2 plus Orange O(G) filter
Plustek 8100i and Silverfast 9 Studio edition - retouched and resized in LR Classic
I was having issues with this...
Nothing too exciting - another test roll of Fomapan 100, but this time dev'd in Rodinal @ 1+50. Definitely a bit crispier than the rolls souped in ID-11 and a bit more obvious grain - as expected. Seems the key to Rodinal is very minimal and gentle agitation - just a very gentle figure-of-eight...
For re-using chemistry I tend to mix up more than is required as 'ready-solution' - usually 1 litre, since 1.0l black plastic chemical bottles are easily available on Amazon - then just measure out the amount needed each time - so 300ml for a 135 film in a Paterson tank. This way the chems are...
In that case, I'd definitely try re-washing and see how you go. Hopefully it's something that happened during the stop-fix-wash cycle as that can be rectified to some extent.
No. The process of shooting film, choosing the right film-type for the situation, its development: the use of different chemistry to achieve different results, and the general 'difficulty' of achieving consistent results is what appeals. Plus I make life difficult for myself by using older...
Nothing on or in the lens would do this - you can have quite a lot of crap on the lens and all it'll do is lower the overall sharpness slightly as well as affect contrast.
If they're in 'exactly' the same place then it's more likely a scanner issue.
If they're just 'nearly' in the same place...
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