Recent content by Ido Scharf

The thing is, continuous autofocus is currently the sore spot of most mirrorless cameras. All camera manufacturers are trying to get around that problem, mainly by implementing phase detection autofocus points onto the imaging sensor, but that still hasn't been nearly as efficient as the...

The thing is, he already has telephoto focal lengths covered, with more than acceptable optical quality. I suppose the Sigma 70-300mm won't make for a dramatic difference, so why bother fixing something that isn't broken? That's the approach I, along with several others here, have taken and it...

Good move. The cheapest lens that will make for a significant improvement over your current kit is probably the Tamron 70-300mm VC, though I don't know much about it. The more expensive, but still under $700, Nikon 70-300mm VR is a proven one, and I've heard nothing but good things about it...

Whoa, I guess you have quite an old 18-55mm model. All the recent ones have IS, and they're pretty decent - exactly on par with the 55-250mm you have. The lack of IS itself only hurts image quality if you're getting to a slow shutter speed while shooting handheld. Then any loss of sharpness...

The 55-250mm IS isn't a better lens than an 18-55mm. They aren't comparable, unless you're only looking at test charts or optical qualities - but those won't help you improve your photography, at least not in an early stage. Horses for courses - they are completely different lenses that you'd...

If you're adapting a big filter to a smaller-thread ultra wide angle lens, then it may certainly vignette. But if it isn't all that wide - say, 28mm equivalent - you shouldn't have a problem. Going the other way, though - adapting a small filter to a bigger thread, obviously causes vignetting...

Yes, I was. But there's one thing I have to tell you before you go out: Leave that camera bag at home. I went out with my camera and standard prime mounted to it on a BlackRapid strap, and had a spare battery in my pocket. That's it. It was a great experience, and I'm really happy I did that.

And another thing to consider, is continuous shooting. When shooting fast bursts, the camera first saves the files to its internal memory - often referred to as buffer - before writing them to the memory card, because writing to the memory card is just a lot slower. At some point, the buffer...

You may find that a Sigma 50-150mm f/2.8 will give a much more useful range. Otherwise, get the Sigma OS instead of the Tamron you've mentioned, unless you find a good deal on the Tamron VC.

Before you buy a filter, try shooting without one. Would be best in this instance to shoot in Raw format and process on a computer. If glare and reflections ruin your shots, get a circular polarizing filter. Otherwise, just keep shooting without one!

If you don't expect to face low light often, buy the kit, it will serve you well.

Sorry if the following has been written here before. I just skipped right to the reply box :exit: (after reading a few comments). Believe it or not, but straight out of camera, a JPEG will look sharper than a Raw file displayed without any adjustments. It doesn't matter if you tell the camera...

It all comes down to this: f/2.8 vs. relatively lightweight. Simply choose what's more important to you.

You have a superb camera. Use it, learn it and learn with it.

The OP owns a Canon EOS 6D, so any Nikon lens will be of no use for him. (Though there are adapters that allow mounting Nikon lenses to Canon bodies...)