Recent content by Andy_S

Are you being asked to be *The Photographer* or take photos as a guest? If the former, its probably better to decline for all the reasons given above (experience, kit, backups etc.) but take your camera as a guest if you'd like to. Just bear in mind weddings festivities may not be the safest...

Its been a while since anyone's added to the list here, so I'll recommend the PixImperfect channel on YouTube. https://youtube.com/c/PiXimperfect Good, clear instructions, with friendly presentation suitable for beginners and working up to more complex techniques.

My first thought is make a rectangular selection from each side of the suction cup, copy each as new layer and move them over the suction cup then and stretch/warp to fit. Adjustment layers can tweak the colours/brightness to match. You don't need to cover it all at once, you could do one set...

The aperture is the size of the hole through the lens. The f number is NOT the size of the aperture. The f number is the ratio of aperture size to focal length. They can be worked out using the equation: F number = Focal length / Aperture Size. As the focal length changes the aperture size must...

Have you considered including an introduction to f. numbers and where they come from before listing them? For example: The aperture of a lens is often referred with a 'f' number and it describes how much light can pass through a lens. It gives us an easy way to make different lenses allow the...

Exactly. I find pushing the noise reduction too far creates a weird blur and loss of texture. It's particularly noticeable on peoples faces and looks like a (very) bad attempt at skin smoothing. Pulling it back leaves some noise but looks much better. You can usually adjust the camera's jpeg...

Most cameras will struggle having such a great range between the dark and light areas. Another possible solution would be using your flash to add more light on the subjects, potentially enough to also expose the sky properly without it blowing out to white.

The best pencil is the one you have with you when you need it. You should avoid using a rubber as editing your work is frowned upon ;-)

If you're looking for real close-up shots then I expect you'll be disappointed with the Tamron, it doesn't get very close. I've been very pleased with my extension tubes, my autofocus set, £60 from Amazon, are so much easier to use than the basic plastic tubes. Also have a look at reversing...

Both taken around Snowdon with a 70-200mm. @70mm: IMG_0771.jpg by Andy_S_C, on Flickr and @109mm: IMG_0965.jpg by Andy_S_C, on Flickr

With the exception of trying the in-camera hdr (jpeg only on the Canon 6D), I just shot in raw and didn't touch the jpeg options. Mostly shot in AV and changing to manual when it came to the sunsets. It was easier than arguing with the camera's exposure compensation. If you have time have a...

I'm back from a few days in Snowdon, admittedly most of my shots were taken with a 20-35mm but I'm glad I switched over to my 70-200mm for a few of them and it should have been more. I had a look through the landscape forum before I went as it was my first time I'd gone out with the intention...

As said above the difference is due to camera to subject distance. Largely the relative distance of parts of the subject. For example, a very close up headshot may have the subjects nose halfway between their ears and the camera. Being much closer it looks much larger. Great for artistic...

Have a look here: http://www.lesjones.com/2011/06/15/effect-of-lens-focal-length-on-portraits/ There's an example pic with a series of tight headshots shots ranging from 19mm to 350mm.